Dave McIntyre’s WineLine – Greg Brewer

January 30th: “aaah, Paris.  The smell of stale cigs, scarves tossed over shoulders, unmistakable CDG tubes, delicate lingerie clad models welcome you from giant posters – Le Bon Vie!!!!!”

January 31st: “Just finished judging Concourse du Vins des Loire competition — It really is work!”

The Loire wine festival has quickly turned into one of the great wine events of year, showcasing the diversity and beauty of Loire selections from the type of producers that we seek out (smaller, family run, integrity filled).  More info here.

Adam Tolmach in typical contemplative pose

A recent visit to Adam Tolmach and his (two person) staff at Ojai Vineyards revealed one clear truth: for some people the pleasure is in the details and the discussion.  One such person is Adam.

He’s been put in the upper echelon of winemakers by some of the most notable wine writers in the world, but it’s a stature that does not hold Adam to one style or grape.  Constant experimentation is the key, and a good example was having the pleasure of tasting though the blending of Dry Riesling, Viognier, and a bottling of single vineyard Syrah.

As the beakers and sample bottles were brought out, Adam wanted to make sure he didn’t know what was being poured.  His assistants added in ringers, including finished wine from last year, to see if it stood out.  Fiddling, fussing, and gesturing, Adam found some wines with “roots in the flavors” and some that “danced, almost too much” and every once in a while one that sang.  Adding five percent here and ten percent there (including adding Riesling to a rose’ “just to see what happens”), all leading to new discoveries.  The speed was amazing.

“I’m not going to hold onto something just because people expect it” he said, specifically referring to warm climate Syrah.  As of the 2009, he has cut most of his contracts with warm climates (holding onto his monopole, Roll Ranch, because “the style is unlike anything else available”).  Focusing on cool climate Syrah will give him a chance to play with more pepper and brightness in the flavors, along with less alcohol in the final wine.  The topic of Alain Graillot came up and Adam lit up like a firefly “Yes! That’s the style! I find so much to keep coming back to in his wines.”

There is something to be said about a 6000 case total production winery that doesn’t feel married to a particular style of wine.  When the issue of wine-making philosophy came up, Adam said “Precision is key, for then you get honest aromas and flavors.”  Then his teenage sons came home, and his attention to detail quickly shifted to them.

This is a wine with huge bang for the buck, but gets lost in obscurity without a little background on the place and the people.

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SAUVAGEONNE – My recent visit in the Terrasses de Larzac

WHERE IS TERRASSES de LARZAC?

The area is part of the historic Diocese of Lodève. Since the days of Roman Gaul, it has benefited from its position close to a major traffic route, an artery known as the Cessero to Segodunum Way (St Thibéry to Rodez), linking the highlands of the Massif Central and the Mediterranean coastlands.  Grape growers have always lived around here.

WHAT IS IT LIKE?

A rugged terroir at the edge of the massif central. Three different soils;  1)”ruffes” on the low hills which is scrabble of schist and volcanic rock, 2) sandstone, gravel and schist, and 3) the hills which a rugged rocky schist as you see to the left.

WHY IS IT GOOD TO GROW GRAPES HERE?

When Gavin Chrisfeld had the opportunity to pick out vineyards anywhere in southern France here he settled here because, “the soils here are like nowhere else” says Gavin. “The vines cover 32 hectares on a band of schist at an altitude of between 150 to 400m. A variety of well-exposed sites and the prevailing north westerly winds ensure that our vines reach perfect maturity with little risk of disease.”

Now ask him how easy it is to farm here! The rocky terrasses tear up tractors as fast as they do your boots. There will be no traipsing about in sandals here!  Windblown, garrigue-y and remote it is in indeed a destination and not likely to get passers-by stopping for a swig.

How does all this affect the wines?

Gavin Chrisfield

The vines work hard to here to penetrated the rocky domes and the prevailing winds keep air circulating in the vineyards and it’s easy for Gavin to work without any pesticides, mildicides etc.  It’s cold at night here and hot during the day so grapes get ripe but acids stay in that very “fresh” range.  The wines are strong and rugged like the terroir, with phenolic ripeness that gives texture to the tannins while remaining amazingly fine.  Vines here were planted 30 years ago, but the yields have lowered in the last decade, they are as low as 15 hl/Ha in some years.

Wines here at Sauvageonne are dark dense and powerful and due to the Syrah are on the reductive side in their youth.  They are natural wines however, not “built to last” but just will because the raw material is so “knitted” together.   The Ruffes, which is the lightest of the lot, still offers lots of bing cherry flavor with a textural component that is typically in wines at a higher price.

We import only Les Ruffes from this producer so far (Thanks weak dollar!). It’s comprised of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault.   This is 100% stainless steel tank.  I tasted the 2008, bottled just 4 days ago, and showing a little bottle sickness on the nose (a reductive mercaptin note)  but the dark intense fruit and big fleshy feel tell you what will be; a helluva red wine for a modest price!

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MORE NOTES FROM FRANCE

MONDAY  in Saint Chinian

After a good night’s sleep  I am off to taste Saint Chinian.

We drive north of Beziers to the town of Saint Chinian,  There are three soils here: Schist to the north, clay and calcaire, and pockets of sandstone that make up 3% or so of the terroir.  The tasting is set up in the abbey at St Chinian, 20 producers are waiting to show their wines.  Depending on what you may be looking for, there are many different styles from this appellation.    Those coming from Schist are usually darker, more brooding and have higher levels of acidity.

One of our new producers ... details later!

The first producer I go to is the Bio-dynamic Canet Valette.    The wines are fresh, spicy, balanced and have the restrained style of producers that practice bio-dynamie   The prices make me hesitate as I wonder if customers will more for the natural aspect of these wines.   I spent the next 2.5 hours tasting mostly red wines, the occasional white usually made from Grenache Blanc, Sauvignon , Chardonnay and the more recently allowed Roussanne.  Finally I arrive at a familiar name Laurent Michel who makes very good Chardonnay/Viognier and even more  lovely  St Chinian called Cazal Viel which was luscious and suave.    Also tasted wines from a one man show who left his legal job working with Beaujolais producers to start his own estate, a tiny property of 5 Ha, with very low yields.  A serious man of few words, he is intense but still proud.  The wines are more raw and are from the last reaches of the appellation before Minervois at the northernmost end of St Chinian.   Clearly his goal is to make very concentrated wines and his yields are very low.  Another young vigneron is getting started with his wife as well.  It seems that the key here is making dark wines that are rich enough to command a little more money for the smaller amount they are able to make.

Our very capable bus driver, who maneuvers this huge bus through roads I would not even attempt on my bicycle, takes us to another estate located up in the schist hills of St Chinian for lunch.  Everyone in the group is critical as they think the wines are uninteresting. They are not bad, they are just very commercially correct.  Straight forward, juicy fruity, they are good but not great wines.

They are fairly priced.  I think that sometimes what people accept from a HIGHLY commercial winery in California, they will not accept in France.  The wines may not be compelling but they still reflect terroir and are, well, correct.  I will not buy them, but I will not damn them either.  Everyone clamors for the Bio guy and the wines do show great material, however the tank wine has reduction, nobody seems to mind but I fear it is unresolvable.   The wooded wines  here are better and yet are now out of the price range for the dollar that has just sunk another 10% lower!  Four more producers and then a piping hot dinner.  Clafoutis of olives,  Sanglier Daube ( a roast of  wild boar in red wine and southern herbs), cheeses and finally figs and pears soaked in red wine.

WEDNESDAY  – FAUGERES

Faugeres never had an excess of production and when the wine was available it was a tannic wine that was often too overripe and so rugged it was not favored by importers.  With more wine available Faugeres now has  a problem, it is unknown especially by  Americans.     We arrive  at Domaine Liquiere for a tasting of 5 producers.  One producer been passed over by the others as the they think the wines are a little pricey.    However after I get the first wine in my glass I can see that this wine as far, far away from the pack.  Every wine gets better and better from this tiny Domaine of 5 hectare.   He is Organic and becoming Bio.  Wines made from Syrah, Grenache Carignan and Mourvedre bear a striking resemblance to wines I have had before,but from where?  Not France.  Ah yes, Spain.  We talk some more and I found out he got many of root stocks from Priorat and in fact has adopted the Priorat technique AND is very good friends of Rene Barbier.  This is the best wine I have tasted on this trip.  This name shall remain a secret until this order is confirmed!

Lunch is Pintade with Broccoli  tart and more Faugeres; one from the Faugeres cooperative and the other a new producer with less than a few acres.  The coop wines are good, and cheap and cheery- I like them a lot.  The new producer is passionate but the wines are not cheap, but I love her north facing vineyard, “keep the freshness plan”.
Dinner is at a Beziers wine bar.  The wine list is incredible!  Never, never let a group of wine geeks loose on a wine list like this without someone in charge!  It is pandemonium!     We had enough wine on the table that certain people stared to panic.  I thought “Are you crazy?”  The whole bill for all of us is maybe $100!   So many choices under $20 it was  like being at a penny candy store when I was a kid!

Off to bed everyone its after midnight!!!

The Brut Majeur which is the real value of the line-up is a dryer style NV Brut with only 9 grams of sugar (some cuvees have as much as 200 grams!) but still delivers a broad palate of richness and flavor, but with a delicate bubble bead that is creamy and elegant.  The Brut Majeur also has an average of “93” on the Echelle des Crus scale*!   I was equally excited about the rosé here, very refined style and yet persistent and refreshing.

A petite histoire……..
The only French champagne house with Latin roots, AYALA was established in 1860 in Äy, France by Edmond de AYALA, the son of a Colombian diplomat in Paris, who married the niece of a noble Viscount and received the Chateau of Äy as his dowry, along with prime vineyards located in Aÿ and Mareuil sur Aÿ.

The House of AYALA was one of the elite founding members of the “Ivy League” of the top champagne houses, the Syndicat des Grandes Marques de Champagne.  AYALA was purchased by Bollinger in 2005.

On December 26th, 2008, Ayala was named Wine Producer of the Year 2008 and Ayala Cuvée Rosé Nature named Wine of the Year 2008 by the highly regarded American writer and Champagne expert Ed McCarthy.

Ayala Brut Majeur is also one of the 8 champagnes recommended by the Wall Street Journal and in the Top 10 Affordable Champagnes of Food&Wine.

Welcome Ayala to the World Class Wines family!

The wines from the evening, with notes by Annette Peters:

Baumann Cotes de Gascogne Blanc from Gascony France– this refreshing summer quaffer is a blend of Columbard, Gros Manseng, and in this vintage a little Ugni Blanc.

It’s from the French Southwest;land of Fois gras, The 3 musketeers, and some of France’s richest heartiest cuisine.  The perky acidity and bountiful fruit give a sweet yet tart impression that makes this a great aperitif wine, perfect for oysters and shelffish.

Served with Trout course

Dal Maso Tai Rosso  from the Veneto, Italy- many of you may have been astonished when this fruity little red arrived in your glass PERFECTLY CHILLED!  Yes, there are red wines that are appropriate for chilling.  This is a juicy and fruity red from near Venice Italy, where it is frequently consumed chilled with fish.   Its made form Grenache planted in the Colli Berici,  and made by one of our favorite rising star winemakers Nicola Dal Maso.  A real fruit bomb, this wine!

Served with  Pork Confit

Pirineos Mesache Tinto from Somantano Spain- this is from one of the coolest areas in Spain at the foot of the Pyrenees.  In addition to the Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot there is a little Basque grape called Peraleta in the cuvee.  Dense, massive yet perfectly ripe and soft.

Served with the beef course

Falesco Rosso 2007- this may be one of the best vintages of this Umbrian icon we’ve ever tasted.  Juicy and spicy, this is made from Merlot , Sangiovese and Cabernet that consistently delivers the character of perfectly ripened fruit .  Ideal with the beef, rich enough and also bright enough to stay refreshing.

Served with Dessert

Moscato  D’Asti, Batasiolo  2008 – “striking” were the words I heard one guest say.  The aromatic Muscat, refreshing bubbles and slight sweetness played well off the berries and the beet combination created by pastry  wonder  Michele Gayer.  This is a perfect summer “uplift” for desserts when other wines would be just too heavy and sweet.

CAVA- Juve y Camps “Reserva de La Familia”, PENEDES, SPAIN  NV

One of the greatest parts of being in Barcelona is what many would call the “CAVA HOUR”.  In Spain, it’s that just after work, not quite tapas time, when you need a little ray of sparkling sunshine in your life.  The Xampaneria, a bar specializing in CAVA, overflows with people onto the sidewalks and streets around 7 pm.  Ask any Catalonian who the most respected and famous producer of Cava is in Spain and you are sure to get the answer “JUVE Y CAMPS”.  Cava is made in the same method as Champagne, the wine is fermented a second time in the bottle except the grape varieties are indigenous: Parallada, Macabeo and Xarrel-lo, the essentials to classical Cava.  The Reserva de La Familia Cava  is aged for 3 years on the yeast, giving a nutty aroma that mixes with apples and lemons, boisterous and lively bubbles and an assertive acidity that wakes you up and refreshes you.  Perfect for a summer day! Reserva de La La Familia is very appropriately named as it has been the everyday favorite of the  Juvé Raventos family for three generations.

LUSTAU “Jarana” FINO SHERRY

Perhaps one of the most misunderstood wines of the world, FINO is to be thought of, managed, stored, chilled, and consumed as one would a fresh white wine.   It gets its character from aging in wooden barrels, under a blanket of yeast that protects it from oxygen, while being refreshed with younger white wine over a period of about 3 years.  It is DRY and carries the flowers and fruits of white wine, but has the added complexity of the environment around it as the yeasty protection flavours the wine with its character of minerals, yeasts, iodine, and sometimes even a salty note of the sea.  It is one of the few wines that can go gracefully with spicy meats, piquant olives or spicy ham.  No wonder it is so traditionally consumed with tapas.  Lustau, owned by the Cabellero family is a testament to high quality Sherry.  They take no shortcuts and are renowned as one of the great Sherry houses.

KURT ANGERER Gruner Veltliner  “Freisenrock”, KAMPTAL, AUSTRIA  2007

The wine growing estate of Kurt Angerer is a family business and has a tradition of 150 years.  Located in the Kamptal region the vines have south and southwestern exposure protecting them from the rough north winds.  Due to Kurt Angerer’s lack of compromise and commitment to high quality, both in the vineyards as well as during vinification the wines are considered some of the best in Kamptal.  Angerer feels strongly attached to tradition and his vineyard “terroir” which is evident in the names he has chosen for his different wines: Freisenrock refers to the loam this Gruner Veltliner is planted in.   He is also organic in his practices. Rooted in the soils of the Kamptal yet a man of the world, Kurt has found his own style which is being validated by the international awards and achievements he is now receiving.  The Freisenrock, has pineapple and papaya with a little bitter lemon peel that mingles with a minerally note.  Dense but never heavy as its weight is lifted up by a snappy acidity.

LIVELI “Orion” Primativo, PUGLIA, ITALY

The Falvo family has long reputation as a great wine making family in Montepulciano Italy.  10 years ago they purchased this estate in Puglia because it offered a history of great vineyards and old vines.  They overhauled the winery, and set up organic practices in the vineyards, many of which are high- density plantings in the “spoke and wheel” manner of the ancient Romans.  The Primativo, also known to us as ZINFANDEL, is an example of the innovative changes they have made at Liveli.  It is redolent of black cherries, Moroccan spices and herbs, high-toned for a full bodied red, the freshness is amazing considering the warm climate of Puglia.  So juicy, it’s easy to match with any food.

GRAHAMS 10 year TAWNY PORT

It is a tradition for the Symington family to take their Tawny port chilled in the summertime, a necessity in the searing heat that bounces back and forth off the slate slopes that flank the Douro river.  So often we think of Port being sipped by the fireside on a snowy Minnesota evening.  It’s quite a different image to think of patios that overlook orange trees blossoming on rocky terraces above the river, and the clink of ice in a glass, the smell of lemons being sliced, the salty taste of fried almonds followed by the strong and sweet taste of a chilled white or tawny port.   A very summery Portuguese moment indeed!